Enotria (Land of Vines)
by Antonio Pani
Sav-Mor Spirits
Enotria is one of the ancient names of Italy. It means “land of vines”. Too bad that too many of the hundreds of different vines that cover the countryside have been relegated to obscurity by distributers, wholesalers, and merchants.
The wines were a status symbol during Roman times; it was used as a currency substitute, medicine, and was considered a mythical beverage. Virgil wrote that so many different types of vine existed that they were equal to the amount of grains of sand found on a beach.
Let’s explore some of the best known and lesser known types of vines, their characteristics, their virtues, aging potential, drinkability, and food pairing possibilities.
Starting from Sicily and its native grapes: Nero d’Avola, Frappato, Calabrese, Grossonero, Nerello, Mascalese, Imzoliza, Grillo, Moscato di Noto, Malvasia delle Lipari.
We move to the island of Sardinia to discover: Cannonau, Nuragus, Monica di Sardegna, Nasco, Torbato di Alghero, Vermentino, Semidano. Vermentino and Torbato pair with the abundant varieties of fish and crustaceans of the island. The reds will compliment suckling pig (a specialty of the island) and real pecorino sardo cheese.
From Sardinia to Puglie with its Negroamaro e Primitivo, to Campania where we find the tasty Coda di Volpe, Greco di Tufo, Falanghina e Aglianico. The Falanghina and Greco are a match made in heaven with the Neopolitan seafood preparation. The minerality found in these wines is a reflection of the volcanic soil component of the Campania region. To Abruzzo e Molise for the divine Montepulciano d’Abruzzo , Trebbianos e Pecorino. To Lazio e Umbria where the Sagrantinos a second to nothing and in the past twenty years are considered cult wines with great aging potential of twenty years or more. A perfect marriage can be made with Sagrantino and the great Umbrian cuisine. Truffles of Norcia, boar, and game meats.
To Toscany where the first appellation for wines was established; Sangiovese and hundreds of clones of it reign, Colorino , Canaiolo, Vernaccia di San Gimignano e Cigliegiolo. In Liguria the Pigato, Vermentino, Albarola and Rossese. In Piemonte the king of wines, Nebbiolo, used in the production of Barolo, Barbaresco e Gattinara. Futher in this region we have the Cortese for the Gavi production, Erbaluce, Arneis, Barbera, Dolcetto, Brachetto, Favorita, Freisa, Gamba di Pernice, Grignolino, Moscato d’Asti, Ruche’ e Timorasso. In Piamonte the Nebbiolo combines with white triuffles, porcini mushroom, rabbit and pappardelle will please any palate. In Friuli, Trentino Alto Adige and Veneto the vines varieties are innumerable: Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara for the making of Amarone, Ribolla Gialla, Pinot Grigio, Vespaiola, Verduzzo, Traminer, Tocai Rosso, Tocai Friulano, Terrano, Teroldego, Refosco, Prosecco, Piculit Neri, Picolit, Malvasia Istriana, Lagrein, Groppello, Garganega, Durello and Casetta. The Malvasia delle Lipari (Sicily) and Picolit (from Friuli) accompany with formagelle (small cheesecakes) and honey, they are wines for contemplation and a prelude to romance.
The promotion of all of the above wines requires knowledge, not only in the wines per se, but in the geographical areas of production. The task is arduous, but not impossible, and we at Sav-Mor love to promote and discuss unusual wines, match them with the right food, and most of all, cultivate a friendship with our customers. We expand our wine horizons with emphasis on unusual small and midsized producers so our customers ultimately will benefit from it.